Thursday, May 7, 2009
May 7 > Prisms
Chris > Prisms: Still can't smear, I'm comfortable with the heel hook though. The last time I was whining a bit about the air pocket under my heel while wearing Five Ten shoes and how I didn't like heel hooking with them. With the new design, there is less of a pocket in the heel cup and you can get a better feel of the rock (or hold). If I ever get another pair, I'll go up to a full size smaller and I'm willing to bet that I could get my heel snug into the heel cup. Now on to my first statement: I still can't smear. That might be a little harsh, but the shoes really aren't doing well with my advantage as a climber, the high step. I'll high step every chance I get and I just can't seem to get my foot to stick on those little round footholds. The other thing that I'm not comfortable with (in these shoes anyways) is running your feet up the wall. I figure that the shoes would loosen up a bit and would make the shoe better in time but right now its not the case. They still feel like they did when I first stepped into them. Five Ten has been working on a new rubber compound, Stealth Onyxx, and it seems to be a stiffer more durable rubber but I think it effects the grip of the shoe.
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