When Five Ten offered us some shoes so we could run a long term test we jumped at the chance!
We're going to have bi weekly updates with what we've done in the shoes and how they're fairing against the abuse we put them through, so this will end up being a pretty long log of everyones thoughts and feelings on 5.10's new shoes... expect some bad with the good :)
As everyone climbs differently, so there will be three of us running three different pairs of shoes; here's what we'll be testing, our first thoughts on the shoes and what 5.10 say about them:
Noodles will be testing the Project; here's what 5.10 says about the shoe: The most sensitive climbing shoe ever built. Designed exclusively for overhanging rock, the Project™ features Five Ten’s ground-breaking Prehensile ™ technology that lets you use your feet like hands. Prehensile Technology allows climbers to grab like never before. Due to the unprecedented durability of new Stealth ™ Mystique™ rubber, the Project’s down turned soles are only 2mm thick (other climbing shoes have at least 4mm thick soles). If you’re climbing hard overhanging routes outdoors or at the gym, the Project is the best choice.
Noodles: Well I've been destroying climbing shoes for 23 odd years, I was one of the first people to get the Anasazi's when they hit the market and they soon became my go-to shoes. I've worn the shoes in Font, on grit, limestone, indoor, outdoors and in water; they've treated me well! I'm looking forward to seeing how sensitive these shoes are, and how they perform compared to other shoes I've worn in the past; I'll still be keeping a backup pair of Anasazi's in my bag just in case :)
Eve will be testing the Anasazi LV; here's what 5.10 says about the shoe: The Anasazi LV (Low Volume) excels on climbs of 5.11 and higher, both indoors and out. This performance climbing shoe is built on a women’s-specific last, and is designed for medium volume feet. The heel design offers an excellent, no-slip fit. Five Ten’s proprietary “Power Toe” and a unique midsole provide the support for extremely technical climbs. Soles are Stealth® C4™, with extremely high friction, indoors and out.
Eve: I actually run two pairs of 5.10's at the moment; the Spire which I keep at the wall incase I forget my shoes, they're pretty well beaten up and are due for the sin bin soon! And a pair of Sirens, these are the shoes that I have in my bag all of the time; having seen Chris and Noodles go through shoes like they're candy I'm looking forward to getting some new rubber and seeing how they fit. I've never had a velcro shoe before so it's going to be nice to see the difference on fit between my usual lace ups. Oooo and they're pretty shoes!!
Chris will be testing the Prism; here's what 5.10 says about the shoe: After five years of intense R&D, we introduce The Prism. In December of ‘06, the US Government awarded Five Ten a patent for faceted edge technology (FET) which gives climbers unprecedented outside edge performance. This comfy shoe features a non-stretch dual Perflex™ micro-fiber laced upper. The Prism has edges at optimum angles with more rubber-to-rock contact then ever possible, plus Stealth® ONYXX™ soles.
Chris: I probably climb too much, let's run a shoe list from the last couple of years... Mad Rock, two pairs, 5.10: 2 pairs of Anasazi's, one pair of Evolv Optimus Primes; these are still alive just, HP40 over the holidays has left these pretty well dead and finally a pair of 5.10 Gambits that I use when I climb outdoors... these are getting more and more use indoors because like I said the Evolvs are finished. Faceted Edge Technology eh? I'm looking foward to see how small I can go on the footholds with these, and a micro fibre upper... my feet kick out pretty badly so I hope I don't stink these up too quickly!
We're going to have bi weekly updates with what we've done in the shoes and how they're fairing against the abuse we put them through, so this will end up being a pretty long log of everyones thoughts and feelings on 5.10's new shoes... expect some bad with the good :)
As everyone climbs differently, so there will be three of us running three different pairs of shoes; here's what we'll be testing, our first thoughts on the shoes and what 5.10 say about them:
Noodles will be testing the Project; here's what 5.10 says about the shoe: The most sensitive climbing shoe ever built. Designed exclusively for overhanging rock, the Project™ features Five Ten’s ground-breaking Prehensile ™ technology that lets you use your feet like hands. Prehensile Technology allows climbers to grab like never before. Due to the unprecedented durability of new Stealth ™ Mystique™ rubber, the Project’s down turned soles are only 2mm thick (other climbing shoes have at least 4mm thick soles). If you’re climbing hard overhanging routes outdoors or at the gym, the Project is the best choice. Noodles: Well I've been destroying climbing shoes for 23 odd years, I was one of the first people to get the Anasazi's when they hit the market and they soon became my go-to shoes. I've worn the shoes in Font, on grit, limestone, indoor, outdoors and in water; they've treated me well! I'm looking forward to seeing how sensitive these shoes are, and how they perform compared to other shoes I've worn in the past; I'll still be keeping a backup pair of Anasazi's in my bag just in case :)
Eve: I actually run two pairs of 5.10's at the moment; the Spire which I keep at the wall incase I forget my shoes, they're pretty well beaten up and are due for the sin bin soon! And a pair of Sirens, these are the shoes that I have in my bag all of the time; having seen Chris and Noodles go through shoes like they're candy I'm looking forward to getting some new rubber and seeing how they fit. I've never had a velcro shoe before so it's going to be nice to see the difference on fit between my usual lace ups. Oooo and they're pretty shoes!!
Chris will be testing the Prism; here's what 5.10 says about the shoe: After five years of intense R&D, we introduce The Prism. In December of ‘06, the US Government awarded Five Ten a patent for faceted edge technology (FET) which gives climbers unprecedented outside edge performance. This comfy shoe features a non-stretch dual Perflex™ micro-fiber laced upper. The Prism has edges at optimum angles with more rubber-to-rock contact then ever possible, plus Stealth® ONYXX™ soles.Chris: I probably climb too much, let's run a shoe list from the last couple of years... Mad Rock, two pairs, 5.10: 2 pairs of Anasazi's, one pair of Evolv Optimus Primes; these are still alive just, HP40 over the holidays has left these pretty well dead and finally a pair of 5.10 Gambits that I use when I climb outdoors... these are getting more and more use indoors because like I said the Evolvs are finished. Faceted Edge Technology eh? I'm looking foward to see how small I can go on the footholds with these, and a micro fibre upper... my feet kick out pretty badly so I hope I don't stink these up too quickly!
