EVE > Anasazi LV's: So the Anasazi's being performance bouldering shoes, I took 'em out bouldering... The usual long-term wear discomfort is still present but at least I can send a problem before wanting to cry now. This said, I should note that they are therefore not slack yet although my heel still doesn't quite fit at the bottom of the shoe.
As for the actual climbing performance, I can say that the most obvious consequence of the shoes being tight is that you can feel your feet, you can trust them and therefore it makes things easier on the mental aspect of being above a pad. The rubber gives a good friction, they do let you down, but this is very rarely. Their main strength is in their pointy tip which allows for precision work and versatility (there are more foothold options when you need less rock to stand on). Another point I'd like to bring up is the fact that the Anasazi LV are nothing special when it comes to heal-hooking. They work (duh!) but especially since I don't fully feel the shoe with my heel, they provide a very weak sensitivity causing me to wonder how solid the hook is. The season is young, and as my hands get more chipped and callused will see how my shoes hold out.
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