Monday, April 20, 2009

20th April: Anasazi LV

EVE > Anasazi LV: It's outdoor season people!!!! Well, at least for those of us who believe it is totally worth it to camp despite the snow in order to touch some rock. The first consequence of climbing near 0*C (32*F) is that you have to deal with seriously cold shoes. This makes them a little more fitted then usual (which in my case is highly unnecessary) and about 40 feet up my first climb with them I had to take a serious break... But what they lack in comfort, they give in confidence.
The Anasazi's tip is pointy enough to make them absolute gold for use in cracks, there is enough rubber going up the top and side of the shoe to avoid serious damage and give me the protection layer needed to shove my foot in there without hesitation.

My major disappointment for this trip was that I expected flawless smearing and although the Anasazi are sticky, the extra friction provided by the rock didn't seem to have any effect. It was like smearing at the gym: sometimes it stuck and sometimes it didn't! Maybe with a little more beating, the rubber will get stickier?!?!
On the other hand, this lack in smearing capability did make me realize that the sensitivity provided by these shoes, although they don't have the thinnest rubber on the market, does allow for a more elevated confidence in my footwork. Why? Well.... I was trying to smear and my foot slipped down onto... well... nothing! But I could feel the crystal of rock under my toe that was sticking out slightly from the mountain and I was able to use it as an ACTUAL foothold since I could feel EXACTLY where it was and how solid I was on it. But despite my 20/20 vision... I was never able to actually see what my foot was clearly telling me to trust! Impressive? Yea, when you're not use to it... Useful? Darn right! :D

So I did climb at Noodles lately and I did do routes at the gym and as usual enjoyed the experience with my 5.10s, which are slowly becoming more and more fitting (causing me to worry about them becoming loose - you just can't satisfy a lady). However, since I hit the outdoors before any of the guys, I just had to rant about it! ;)

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