Monday, March 16, 2009

16th March

Noodles: I gave Eve her shoes, and shes pretty happy with them, shes only ever had 5.10's and despite them being a little small (like all her shoes) shes suspects they'll stretch out over time.

I took the Projects and the Prisms out for a spin on the wall and despite the Prisms being a half size larger than my shoe size could crank them down (Got to love laces!) and could wear them and see what's up.... for me the Prisms feels like a chiseled toed version of the Anazasi's, which isn't a bad thing something that's built for small edges and micro holds! Now don't get me wrong, I have had a pair of sporting manly pink Anazasi's for a long time, multiple pairs, these seem like a more exacting version of those. The Anazasi's are a "all round" shoe in my belief, whereas the Prisms are built more for edging / micro holds... but it'll be interesting to see what's what, the Anasazi's has climbed more hard routes than any other shoe, Evolv's have had some hard ascents but that's Sharma for you he can climb in a pair of rain boots and not worry about it... I think it's a battle royale in the making; give Dave Graham a pair of Prisms someone... like NOW!

Here comes the dilemma, after climbing a little in both (Prisms and Projects) I couldn't decide which shoes I wanted to run for the test. The Prisms are stiffer and more like what I'm used to, the Projects more to what Chris does; steep walls and bouldering. I decided to leave it up to Chris when he came over to see what we'd take. He took them out for a spin and we didn't reach an overall decision; he like the Projects.. but they fit me better but are more flexible than I'm used to. I like the Prisms, they're what I know, seemingly in a different guise but they're his size (For reference we both wear the same size street and climbing shoe)

We decided to fix the problem the tried and tested way!:

Yup with Chris losing!! I've got the Projects and Chris the Prisms.
Now I can reveal one thought I had the other day when trying them....
You can feel EVERYTHING in the Projects, EVERY BLOODY THING. Those shoes are sensitive. Like holy crap I can feel what my toes are feeling sensitive! You might as well be climbing bare foot :)

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